Night-time BRIMNES
Materials:
BRIMNES 3 drawer
The Brimnes 3 drawer chest (703.0.17 Art.) has a frosted glass window in his drawer. I do not know why he does it, but it can certainly be put to better use than to show a preview of your socks stack
This is what you need
- About 2m (7 ') of the LED light strip. I used a variety RGB LED strip but any will do.
- A spare drawer bottom for Brimnes (I went to the service desk and asked nicely, they sold me for 20SEK) or other timber large enough sheet to cover inside drawer front.
- about 2m planed wood with a rectangular profile. I used 8x15mm, where the 15mm is sufficient to answer my bright band 10mm.
- Some wood screw about 20 mm in length
- A handful of cable ties (preferably using screws instead of nails)
Assemble the chest and drawers according to the manual. Here is what the slide looks like.
Cut two pieces of wood long enough for the inner width of the drawer. We do a part thereof, which fits around the window.
To ensure that the drawer can close properly, measure carefully so that the short edges of the frame are the right length (up to the upper edge of the sides the drawer). I chose to leave the long edges through the corners of the frame, because it is easier to measure the length of the four pieces in that way.
Make sure the pieces are arranged with their longer (15mm) side face in the frame and the short (8mm) side face in the drawer.
Cut two of these shorter pieces, so you have two long and two short.
This is how the pieces fit together. They are still loose, but make sure your image lines properly inside the drawer. Note that the entire interior of the wooden frame is now 15mm wide, leaving space for mounting the light band later.
I slept on one side of the sheet of wood with wallpaper, to give it an even white tone. It will be inside the enclosed space in front of the glass.
Carefully align a long and a short frame piece on the edges of the sheet. The fix with wood glue and tighten until they are resolved.
Attach the two remaining pieces to make a perfect rectangle. Make sure that all corners are 0 degrees.
When the glue has set wherever you should have a blank sheet of wood with a wooden frame in the corner.
Using a hand saw for cutting wood in excess around the frame.
Your frame with support must now fit inside the front of the drawer.
Double check that it fits inside and the top of the frame is flush with the sides of the drawer.
Drill small holes through the frame and the support. These holes are screws that will hold the frame in the front of the drawer. I recommend at least three holes along the upper part (long) edge and one on each side. The lower edge does not need to screw holes.
Drill a hole in the side of the drawer, as close to the front of the drawer as possible. Remember when you assemble the drawer, there was a screw holding the face on the side? Do not drill there. I went right over the metal blade.
Since my chest will have its closest right of an outlet, I made the hole on the side of the drawer. In this way, the power cable out the right side of the chest and easier to the road outside.
The hole should be large enough to fit your LightStrip through. I did 10mm.
Add your picture in the drawer, hold it in place by hand and mark the position of the hole you just made.
Drill a corresponding hole in the frame, being careful not to break the frame (the adhesive can be low even).
Feed the LightStrip in the drawer
Feed the LightStrip part, all the way to the connector and then some (you want the outgoing cable but the connector inside the frame where it will be safe.)
from the connector, secure the LightStrip inside the frame, with LED inwards.
When you get around, cut LightStrip at the point marked (see the manual of your LightStrip). I'm lucky, the cut marks almost perfectly aligned with the length of the inside of the frame.
Put the framework in place in the drawer and secure it with screws in every hole you made earlier. Make sure not to bend or crush the LightStrip cable, it should come out of the hole in the drawer properly.
Connect the cable to the outside of the drawer using safely several cable ties. Make sure you have about 5mm clearance between the clamps and metal slider, otherwise the drawer will not sit properly in the chest. Thread the cable all the way to the upper back of the drawer angle.
Feed the power cable from LightStrip through the hole in the back of the chest (IKEA thoughtfully left a large rectangular hole there to fix the chest wall).
fix the cable inside the ceiling at the back and halfway to the front of the chest. In this way, the cable that descends halfway between the front and rear of the tray, and slack equal when the drawer is open when it is closed.
Have someone hold the drawer to the right height, right next to the chest, while you attach the cable.
Leave enough slack to turn around the tray and insert it, but no more. This game will be enough to open and close the drawer.
Route your cable to the back of the chest in a way that suits your installation.
Insert the tray and plug in the light strip. Completed! It is difficult to take good pictures of lighting, but the bedside chest now serves as table lamp, with only about 17mm of space lost in the drawer
Here are some ideas for improvements:
There is ample space (about 5cm to the drawer) inside the chest ceiling to mount a switch if you need it, I did not because my LightStrip is controlled wirelessly.
you can tie or draw dark patterns on the inside of the glass for a cool silhouette effect. You can also cut a slit in the open support of the image if you want to illuminate the inside of the drawer
~ Albin Eldstål
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