Pax closet doors, no lower rail
Materials: Pax Lyngdal doors, screws, washers, plastic caps, sweat and tears [slide
description: When I bought my house, he was in urgent need of renovation. We painted, put down hardwood floors (not easy on top of the concrete), installed new windows ... the whole shebang. When it came time to pay some attention to the master bedroom, I was unhappy with the closet doors. There are three cupboards of equal size, although the doors were uneven, held closed with magnets finicky and prone to stick whenever the weather changed. Furthermore, they just looked bad.
For IKEA! There I found the Pax Lyngdal sliding frosted glass doors (light aluminum frame) in a size close to perfection: 78 3/4 "x 118 1/8". It seems to be more available in this size, but it should work with any size Pax door of the sliding variety. After brainstorming, we concluded that the four doors would work in the three closets, just with some overlap. Ideally we would have dug three doors that were a smidge larger, but a customized solution would have cost ten times more than the $ 250 per pair four doors cost. So we rolled with it.
The first hurdle was securing the upper grid. The way the work is Pax puts the grid below and behind the top of the door, which meant that we had to fill about six inches of space above the existing openings. This was solved with a few hooks and a cut to the size 1 × 6 in each door.
[backing.jpg]
The next hurdle took almost as much puzzle out how to organize
four doors: the bottom. With the rail behind the doors, the center of gravity pulls the door to the wall without something deep to keep them. On Pax wardrobes and many facilities that is the bottom rail. I wanted to be able to enter in closets, and also wanted to avoid damaging the newly installed flooring. In addition, the lower rail for Pax is rather large.
After running around some ideas (a rail dual channel or single channel front doors rest against?) I was looking at the back door and it occurred to me that we could use the screw holes for securing the wheel supports for the bottom rail to take the place of a series of pegs / cursors.
A quick trip to the hardware store for a screw pile, washers and plastic caps and we had a solution. Screw / washer solution / cap was mounted in the following places:
On baseboards original dividers between the three closets. These stakes keep internal doors pushed a good vertical.
On the lower rear corners of interior doors - these are also the two central doors. These catches on the plinth ankles, keeping the doors of going too far and swinging in opening a closet.
On the lower rear corners of the exterior doors and one on the front interior door. They hang catch. The pin on the front interior door is close to the outer corner, positioned so that the sliding exterior door past, it will catch the ankle (with internal peg on the back inside the outer door) and drag it to a closed position and centered position. This piece also draws the ankle outside the outer gate at the opening of a side closet, dragging the inner door (and pushing the other interior door) on the way to access it.
The last step, after obtaining that all-inclusive was a little extra paint. Everything between the wall on two sides, under the top rail on the back of the remaining door frames was painted medium gray. Unless the light is right, the average gray paintwork makes disappear behind the gray frosted glass doors of Pax. The rest of the cupboard were left intact - not enough light back there with the doors closed to make it stand.
More photos before and after.
~ Derek Kessler, Cincinnati
author
Julius Yap "I'm Jules, the engine behind IKEAHackers and one that keeps this site running. My mission is to capture all the wonderful, inspiring, clever hacks and ideas for our beloved IKEA products "
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